November 14, 2021

This restaurant flew under my radar as I researched Phoenix. I found it as I left and made a reservation for when I arrived. Great choice in that regard - just a quick ride from the airport. And the reviews were off the charts.

Anhelo means "desire" or "longing". I read this review that said: 

You can tell this young chef has fun. He is slowly settling in, starting to winnow closer toward his culinary identity, and plating food that can be pretty tasty. If he can hone his menu and tighten a few dishes while retaining what makes him different, his free approach may make him a fixture of the downtown dining scene for years to come.

That review was written 2.5 years ago. I tasted exactly the same thing tonight.

One example - the three main dishes were all on yellow purees (pumkin, sweet potato then carrot). When the duck was set down, I thought "Is this the same puree?" While each was done well, it shows a visual narrowness. Even the "monotony" of the same mouth feel over 3 dishes shows a lack of maturity. I get it - you know how to deliver a chewy/firm protein on top of creamy puree. It's not that any one dish is off - but the sequence for a tasting menu isn't right.

A number of dishes were heavy-handed with pepper too - most notably the dumplings and the risotto. I love pepper, but it left a strong lingering flavor on my palate that went too far. I asked the waiter about it to see if it was on purpose or a mistake. He said "Yes, the chef does love pepper." and explained that many of his dishes are more pepper-forward than would be typical.  

There were other misses. I only had a fork for the initial yogurt dish as well as the ricotta dumplings. And no silverware at all for the pumpkin risotto. (Stole a fork from the table next to me.) But the waiter was delightful, friendly and welcoming, albeit a little absent. The duck was overcooked and underseasoned...but headed the right direction.

The wines were really good, but needed more explanation. The bottle was not even brought to the table for display - just a glass of wine set down with the name of the wine provided. 

Even with all of that, I got my money's worth at this price point. It's solid cooking with well-sourced ingredients. But does taste a bit "under-ripe" for this level. Like you want to say to the chef "You're heading the right direction. You're getting there!"

Given the review from 2.5 years ago saying the same thing, it would be an interesting restaurant to watch, to see if it can progress to the next level in the years to come. 

Beets & Apple, goat cheese, yogurt "whipped vigorously with honey", toasted pistachios, radish, mint, pepper
This is the butter for the bread. Really nicely done!
Big-eye tuna crudo, fresno chiles. Kudos for using (some really yummy) tuna (not hamachi) but this dish needed way more acid, more salt and a little more heat.
House made ricotta dumplings, "decadent cream sauce", chives. Overpowered by chunks of sea salt (or pepper?). Didn't get a spoon for this dish either, which was strange.
Pumpkin risotto, toasted pepitas, pecorino, aged balsamic. Definitely a winner. And the wine pairing was perfect.
Scallop, sweet potato hash, bacon, fried capers, sweet potato puree. Their signature. Really well done.
Duck with honey and lavender gastrique, carrot puree, roasted carrots. Delicious, but underseasoned and tough...
It looked perfectly cooked when it arrived, but was difficult to get through even with a sharp knife. This shows the actual cook on it, which is way over. Hence the toughness.
Lemon semifredo, fresh fruit. Maybe the best dish of the night. This was outstanding and a terrific finale.


What do you think? I'd love to hear from you.

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Replying to Steven Smith