
Atempo
This opening restaurant to our Spain and France trip opened with such promise but fizzled hard as the meal went on.
Atempo means "timeless". "The chef wants to present food from the past, present and future." Nice idea. And the space they do it in is truly gorgeous. It felt so great as we walked in. Elevated, elegant, warm.
The meal starts with opening bites at a two different tasting counters, taking you in towards the dining room. These bites were outstanding. Chefs were friendly and welcoming and the bites were diverse and delicious. The steamed curry bread was out of this world.
It's when we got to the table that the meal started southward. The first few opening bites were delightful. The Nori seaweed cannula was brilliant and the oyster dish was smart and yummy. Most of the larger dishes were presented with an enormous tray of ingredients and prepared tableside by a chef. The first few times, this was neat and exciting. After the 3rd (then 4th then...), it just started feeling gimmicky. "Oh look. Another huge tray of elements..."
The dishes followed suit - overdone with too many ingredients and not coming together as a cohesive whole. For example, why would you put truffle with a powerful shrimp stock reduction? The truffle was totally lost. A gentle tempura squash blossom with...gorgonzola and eel?? The cod dish should be scrapped altogether. Neither of enjoyed any part of it.
I wish I could say that the dishes were saved by excellent cooking. But most of proteins were well overcooked. Even the denouement - Royal goose with black garlic emulsion, roasted chestnut cream (how good does that sound??) - fell incredibly flat. The dish was chopped, like goose meatloaf. And Teresa's was cooked to a full well done.
Service? That needed help too. Our server was delightful and quite earnest in making sure we were happy. She told us she was new to the job, which became quite apparent throughout the night. She has terrific potential and clearly belongs in fine dining. But she was given tables far too early without the training she needs to be successful.
Other issues were found throughout. Silverware was dropped with regularity. Menus were dropped carelessly on our plates. Plates were at times served by reaching across the entire table to avoid coming around to the far side.
When I went to the restroom, a large doorway was blocked by a few chefs and the (clearly VIP) guest. I stood there quite a while before a server on the other side of them gently nudged them aside. They still barely made enough room.
I then walked past the service desk which was a complete mess. No big deal if it's out of sight, but it's right where everyone can see it. As you come back down the stairs from the restroom, you're essentially right on top of it.
I have said it time and again - great restaurants pay attention to everything.
Service here needs even more refinement than the dishes. The clear exception was the sommelier, who was friendly, skilled and clearly the adult in the room. She found us terrific wines, but was clearly head and shoulders better at service and hospitality. Perhaps I was projecting, but I could sense a general feeling of "eye roll" as she worked among so many who around her that were not up to snuff.
The entire restaurant needs refinement. It needs a strong general manager who sees the issues and drives the staff to a higher standard. The experience felt like it lacked that level of oversight and vision. I would prefer a menu half as long and twice as refined. The amount of dishes you get for 150€ is beyond generous.
But it's too much. It feels stretched and wide, not deep and rooted.
I'm interested to see where this restaurant goes. Does it improve or fall apart?
That I'm even asking that question tells you all you need to know.