One of the best restaurants in the world, Central's tasting menu looks to create links between humans, nature and culture, and strives to highlight those elusive elements that few people see in their daily lives.

This review is much informed by the previous one, just a few weeks earlier.
I would encourage you to start with the September 29 review first.

Our 2nd visit to Central in as many weeks revealed some pretty substantive inconsistencies. Mind you, the visit was stellar and it still felt special. But lots of raised eyebrows with the execution.

We came back because they have two menus, and we wanted to try them both. We were told that 2 dishes were repeated between the menus. We ended up having 5 dishes that were the same. (One was that grouper dish which I was going to beg them for anyways.) The staff again seemed confused about the menus, unable to really clarify which was which or how they differed. One is meant to be based on height and the other based on ecosystems. But both menus reference both equally.

This one was definitely heavier dishes. Some had the same concept as its sister dish on the other menu, with a small twist. (Crab instead of clams...that sort of thing.) The previous menu (Mundo Mater) is their standard menu and is definitely more cohesive and a better meal. But this one threw a few interesting twists.

The meal got off to an inauspicious start. We sat for quite a while before anyone came to welcome us. We still did not get the presentation of ingredients at the table (never did...). Most notably, our first dish arrived (which is quite messy) and we had no napkins or silverware. We had to call a server over and ask for them. She replied "Oh, you want napkins?" I'm sure it was just something she said, flustered by the oversight, but still...an insanely substantive miss for a restaurant of this caliber.

Staff seemed more confused and awkward. Not sure who was supposed to do what, or what was supposed to come next. A nearby tree (yes...trees grow inside throughout the place) dropped some dead leaves on the floor. I wondered whether the nearby server would notice. Good news? He did. Not so good news? He clumsily kicked it back into the base of the tree. The sommelier provided tepid descriptions and just seemed to want to pour the wine and get the hell away from our table.

There was care, but no warmth.

That said, the wines were some of the best pairings I've ever had. Stupendous on their own as well as how they were paired with the dishes. Definitely get the South American wine pairing. Far better than the juice pairing.

20231010_213450.jpgToo, the chef/owner was there and they noticed that we noticed. Of their own accord, the server came to our table and assured us that he would have him stop by and say hello. Which he did. Funny thing - he too seemed to be doing his duty and not overly enjoying having to interact with the guests. You can see it in the photo. I get it - it's not for everyone. But given the attention he is getting as the #1 restaurant in the world, there are sure to be many more in the years to come who are dying to meet him.

I asked about how things had changed since they were voted #1. He gave a long sigh and spoke of how the demands on the restaurant were now through the roof. Expectations too. "We began as a simple restaurant showing Peruvian food. I never expected any of this." It's clear that he didn't. Sure, you can see some holes in the experience. But moreso, there is an innocence to the entire place. Like they truly don't know why or how any of this is happening. It's cute. Strong humility in the type of restaurant that would typically have quite a puffed chest.

 You need to eat here if you can. It's unique and special and delicious. You only need to go once and have the Mundo Mater experience. They are doing such a service to their country, showing off its rich beauty and diversity through an incredible meal. I'm so glad we were able to get in.

At the time of our visit, Central had just been voted the best restaurant in the world on the 50 Best List. Reservations were impossible and the buzz around it showed up in almost every tour we did in Lima. "We also have the #1 restaurant in the world..." To say we were excited to be able to visit is an understatement.

To understand Central, you need to understand Peru - an absolutely enormous country with every topography, ecosystem and weather pattern you can think of. Deserts? Check. Rainforest? Check. Mountains? Check. Endless coastlines? Check. 

Central seeks to capture its country by exploring these heights and ecosystems and putting them on various plates for you. The menu puts the height of the ingredients front and center (e.g. 3500 MASL = "3500 Meters Above Sea Level") to give you a constant understanding of where the items you are eating came from.

The physical space of this restaurant is the best I've seen anywhere. It sits on a very "city" street with a busy street inches away from its large, heavy, concrete gate. But step inside, you are in a different universe. A huge expanse of lush gardens with the host stand right there to welcome you. Staff guide you into the beautiful building through winding walkways through the flora. It's quite a first impression.

Once inside, the feel is very modern and upscale, with ethereal music playing - as if to separate you from anything outside, including your own life concerns. You are in their space and it is extremely immersive. The tables are all stone/marble. Trees grow up to an through the ceiling. Every inch of this extremely large space (shared with Kjolle and various research areas) is fully committed to a natural feel and fit. One example: the large doors to the restrooms are wooden and have no hardware. The "handle" is carved into the wood - a curved gap, floor to ceiling - to pull it open. Any handle would seem out of place, as it would in the middle of a rainforest. Such incredible and well-thought touches were found everywhere - down to the silverware and vessels that brought your food.

20231010_210303.jpgServers wore simple khakis and light blue button downs, so as to blend and not compete with the many natural elements of the space. All the while, the dining room is set towards the enormous kitchen, set behind glass and spans the entire width of the dining room.

Before I ate a thing, I never wanted to leave.

The food is special in its vision and expression. "Farm to table", "Nose to tail", "Hyperlocal" - all phrases that many restaurants use, but few dive FULLY into. Central does. Its vision to show you its country is found on every plate and done at such a high level.

For us, the meal could be split in two. The first half of the meal was absolute stellar perfection, with dish after dish making us shake our heads in disbelief as to what we were eating, the insane flavors and textures and how it could possibly be made. One of the simplest dishes (fish aoili in a lettuce leaf) nearly brought Teresa to tears, not able to understand how something so simple possess such an inane flavor profile.

The highlight was the grouper dish - now a favorite dish of all time. Perfectly cooked fish inside a crispy fried coating sitting in a broth that had depths I've never imagined. From its own warmth, to its texture (so rich, it almost tasted gelatonous), to the rich umami of a fish broth with this subtle but very present spicy heat that brought each bite to incredible heights. That dish will stick with me for a VERY long time.

The 2nd half of the meal took a step back - in comparison to the first. These dishes were good. Solid. Enjoyed anywhere else and I would have likely been blown away. But served here, following the heights (pun intended) of the first few hours of dishes, they came up short. The juice pairing was similarly "good", but only that. 

Service had a few small misses as well. Most notably, most guests received a talk on their way in next to a table filled with ingredients and products - surely intending to give you a sense of the journey you were about to experience. Others were already at the table when we passed it by, glancing jealously at whatever they were learning. Even mentioning that we would love to experience that, we were told it would happen later...but it never did. 

We left many hours later, truly awed by the place and so happy to have been able to attend. It feels special. It IS special. While it falls short of the best in the world for me, it surely deserves the attention it is currently receiving. And the unique and full-throated commitment to sharing its diverse country throughout its menu is truly second to none.

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Kjolle Lima, Peru
Maido Lima, Peru
Mérito Lima, Peru

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