Cinc Sentis
We arrived at Cinc Sentis for lunch, lest we fill up before what was sure to be a huge lunch the next day at El Celler de Can Roca. The crowd was light - us and two other tables of 2. So there was a palpable lack of energy in the room. I thought about how they could solve this type of thing, but didn't come up with any solid answers.
Lunch started off really well. You begin with appetizers in a stunning foyer room that is made to be like the forest the chef grew up in. Modern design complete with background bird sounds really brought you in to the experience.
They also provided tea in a glass pot with a long, curved spout and showed you how to drink it by holding the pot above you and pouring it straight into your mouth. Not everyone can do it without spilling it down their face. Fun and interactive way to begin.
The initial bites served there were also stellar. We were definitely excited to see what was next. We moved from there to their very formal dining room. "Let's move you from the countryside to Barcelona, just like chef's family did." A bit of a thin storyline, but OK.
Another round of small bites arrived at the table. These were even better than the first, culminating with a tuna tartare inside a thin, crisp cracker with caviar on top. It was absolutely phenomenal. The duck liver and green apple dish was also unique and excellent. These bites were not just smart but incredibly innovative presentations of what would otherwise be very common flavor combinations.
Unfortunately, that's where it ended for me. As we entered the mains, I found each to be smart and well done, but pretty forgettable. The opening dish was wood fired sweet potato, chestnut and a chestnut cream. Which tasted like...well...sweet potato. And chestnut. Everything was well done, but I wondered why I was at a 2 star restaurant for something this "normal".
Dish after dish, I thought "Yeah. I get it. Smart." But never had a bite that felt elevated or different or worthy of note. For example, their medieval dish was such a great concept. Lesser cuts of meat and vegetables as the peasants would have had, elevated to a fine dining presentation. Paired with a wine "from the last century" (1998...ahem...) in a thick, stocky glass that would befit a medieval fair. LOVE this concept. And the dish was good.
But that's it.
Wines followed suit. They were all fine. They made sense. But none made me think "I need to get a bottle of THAT!".
Service is relaxed and friendly but does come with a formal, hushed, white-tablecloth feel to it. They do everything "right", but noticeably right. An example: I was sitting on the far side of the table away from the kitchen and where the servers would come from. So when they came to clear, the server coming to my side, rather than walk straight at me the whole way and approach from the front, would "walk by" the table, then turn and take my plates, coming from "behind" me.
I get it. That's "proper". But, perhaps because there were so few tables...I kept noticing it being done. "Here he comes...and walked by me...and hello plate clearer!" The best service is that which you don't notice. That was not the case here.
For me, the entire experience was like that. Like you're watching the sausage get made. Everything made sense. On paper, it was all correct. Lots of "I get what they are doing there." But something just didn't transfer those things to a truly elevated experience where you felt immersed in the food and the service and and the space and their story.
Even the cards - one for each dish describing the meaning and sharing the ingredients. Love that idea, of course. But look at the last few. It's like the printer was running out of toner. This is a 2 Michelin star restaurant. These are cracks one ought not see.
They did, however, have this shot. Let me TELL you about this shot. Maple syrup, sea salt, cream, cava, egg yolk. Like egg nog with maple syrup. It was an insane amount of yumminess. They asked if we wanted another and we gasped "Yes!! PLEASE!!!" It may not be the most revelatory flavor combination (it alludes to the chef's time spent living in Canada), but man did they do this right. No wonder it's been on the menu from the beginning.
Overall, Cinc Sentis was a disappointment. Not because it was bad. But because so little of it brought me to that elevated place where you think "THIS is why I seek out fine dining." There are so many other incredible options to choose from in Barcelona, this wouldn't be a restaurant I would recommend.