Clover Hill

I came to Clover Hill with Donna, who wanted a seafood-forward tasting menu. The reviews on this place were varied, so I didn't know what to expect. The good news: I was pleasantly surprised.

Their website says "Our intent is to deliver an experience that feels like home." And do they ever. The intimate space is just the right size - 30 seats at maybe 10 tables. The decor is warm and hip and perfectly Brooklyn, down to the hip hop music playing at just the right volume. The dining room flows into the bar and to the open kitchen - all one space that really makes you feel at ease.

Aside from the space, this is one of the better front of house staffs I have ever seen. Sure - there were a few newbies who were super nervous, but overall they were attentive and super earnest. Just the right friendly, easy, young-30s vibe, but enough formality to convey the level of experience they want you to have. Particular kudos to our sommelier Debbie, who came here from the 2-star Jungsik.  Her affect and descriptions were out of the world, and the wine pairing was stupendous. This part of the meal punched well above their 1-star status.

For the most part, the food was also excellent. Very well cooked, and incredibly diverse. When you serve 7 pieces of fish in a row, one might expect a little monotony. But the variations in accompaniments - from a vinaigrette to sabayon to an incredibly delicious curry - made each dish own its own space without competing or melding with the others. The cookery was at a pretty high level, which one would expect with this Chef's resume (Jont, Bresca, EMP, One White Street). 

The curry dish was by far the best. And the tuna and rice dish was incredibly inventive. I don't know that I've had those flavor combinations before and boy did they work!

Overall, this was a terrific experience. With one exception.

The price.

When a 1-star restaurant is $270, it's generally one of two reasons. First, they load your dishes with luxury ingredients - truffle, caviar, uni, etc. This often shows a restaurant trying to be more "fancy" than it is. That wasn't the case here. Sure, some of those were found in the meal, but each appropriately paired and none over the top. The second reason? It's just overpriced. And Clover Hill is.

At $200, this would be an excellent meal I would return to. I mean, le Bernadin is $225. And without any snub at Clover Hill, they aren't le Bernadin. One might argue that in order to provide the level of service they do, the money goes into the front of house. And while that's potentially understandable, it would not bring me back. Service is important, but food is paramount. And this meal, while excellent, was not worth $270.

It's difficult to end on that note, because I don't want to take away from the experience, which was very enjoyable. It's an extraordinarily cohesive restaurant that tells a great story with delicious food. For those who don't care about the extra $100, you'll be glad you came. For those that do, there are far better places around NYC to invest that level of money into fine dining.

It will be interesting to see how sustainable they find this model. The place was packed solid on the Friday night we attended, so perhaps the answer is right there.