Cocina Hermanos Torres
I was looking forward to this one. The buzz is that this place may be an unsung favorite in Barcelona (competing with Disfrutar and Enigma). People just raved about the food and the experience. So we didn't mind waiting 30 minutes in the cold before they opened. (I can be a little impatient leaving the hotel to get to these restaurants on time. Sorry honey...)
I suppose that should be story #1 though. As we waited well across the street and almost out of view, the staff opened the door a bit early and waved us in, recognizing that we were there for them. Nice touch. It shows caring attention beyond just the guests seated at the table.
The first thing you note is the dining room. Whoa! An extraordinarily elegant space with the tables around the outside of the room surrounding the kitchen right the middle of everything.
A new definition of "open kitchen".
Sure, it's fun to eat with such "entertainment". But more than that, it's the chef saying "We're not hiding anything. We do everything SO right that you can watch every inch of what we do."
Love that. Such a purposed decision when the restaurant was being designed.
We had just sat down when one of the Torres twins (no idea which one) came to our table, welcoming us dynamically. He seemed so genuinely glad we were there.
Love that too.
The food here is absolutely exquisite. Brilliantly conceived, perfectly executed and absolutely enjoyable. I can see what everyone was raving about. Two of the dishes go into my absolute all-time favorite things I've eaten. I'll remember each for a long time.
The first was the initial "main", and it was so damn simple. Chopped squid (think tartare), consomé, caviar. That's it. Nothing hidden. Nothing "elevated". Just those things. And let me tell you...it was mind-blowing. Food like this is why I eat. So simple, but each component playing its role perfectly and elevating the other to new heights, which in turn elevates itself.
I always love when a chef has the confidence to put out simplicity. It shows such a maturity and respect for the product above his/her own skill. (Take a look at Urko in Ecuador for the heights of this type of cooking. And Noma, of course.)
But it was 2 dishes later that put me on the floor. Again - simple. Vegetables, mushroom broth, truffle. My favorite flavors. But this was in a league of its own. The plating was a vision and I can't explain the deliciousness of this fully vegan dish. Truly mind-blowing.
As I finished it, I glanced at the kitchen. Chef Torres was there, looking directly at me from behind the pass. Pointing at me with a huge smile on his face, silently asking "Are you enjoying everything??". I clutched my heart back at him to which he leapt for joy and smile somehow got even bigger.
Hospitality doesn't come any better than this.
Staff as a whole were a bit more detached than I would have expected, but very friendly, engaged and wanted to be sure you had everything you needed. Some of the detachment could have been the language barrier - I'm not sure.
When I raved about the lamb jus, our server arrived with an entire pot of it, ladling far more than should be allowed onto my empty plate. "You have bread leftover and clearly need this to enjoy it all." I giggled at the joke as well as the lavish treatment.
The only miss was a big one. I ordered tea at the end of the meal. It was brought to the kitchen and placed on the counters there. I watched it sit there for quite a while, wondering when someone was going to bring it to me. Also wondering how over-steeped my tea might be.
As I watched the pot sit there, the chefs then cleaned down the counter down with spray cleaner. Right up to and around my pot of tea. They didn't spray the pot, but how could it not have gotten some on there? It was eventually brought to the table but I was a bit skiddish, as you can understand.
A pretty huge miss for a 3 star restaurant. There did seem to be a "We're done" feel at the end, even as the restaurant remained pretty full with those enjoying coffee, final bites and settling their bills.
Anyway - let's get back to the good stuff. One of the truly fun pieces of this place are the uniforms. The staff are all dressed formally in suits. Except they all sported big, shiny, bright red basketball sneakers. Clearly a statement of "We take THIS seriously, but not OURSELVES too seriously." Love that too.
It was only as we left that Teresa caught the highlight of those sneakers - the three Michelin stars embroidered on the heel.
Well played, Chefs Torres. Very well played.
One final note. I couldn't get over what people would wear to this elegant, 3 star restaurant. One guy had a sweatshirt and baseball hat (which he kept on). Another came in sweats and a white t-shirt. I get that fine dining clothing standards have loosened, but for me, there is a certain level of respect deserved by those giving their lives to provide you an experience such as this.
The restaurant appropriately made no comment and welcomed all equally. But come on, people.
Rant over.
This place rocks. Put it on your list. I would come back in a heartbeat. The entire experience is so high level and extremely enjoyable. The food is phenomenal. I loved every second.