Chef James Trees names this restaurant after his Great-aunt Esther, who was "a tough, smart, no-nonsense type who cared about people and gave good advice." She sent him to culinary school and gave him an inheritance to open this restaurant.

I. Love. Places. Like. This.

In my research on where to eat in Vegas, this place kept showing up. There's nothing fancy about it. Well off the strip, it's an Italian place in the arts district. From the outside, you'd walk right by. Inside is quite nice, but looks like any other modern, hip restaurant with wood and wrought iron, modern lighting and an open kitchen.

The menu is what first clues you in. It's impressive. The dishes are smart and described as you would to a discerning audience.

Second clue? Everything is made from scratch. Pretty much everything. From breads and pastas to dressings and more. That shows commitment to the craft, as well as quality food.

Third clue? The staff. I was there when they opened for lunch, so the place was pretty empty. My server (Kasey) came over and engaged for quite some time in a fantastic discussion about all things culinary. Friendly, easy. Capable. She has 2 culinary degrees and has worked here a while. That says something. The restaurant does pooled tips, which requires a strong commitment to their front of house staff. It shows.

And the food? Sure...nothing is Michelin-level here. But MAN is it well made and delicious. 

I started with their little gem caesar. (I can never pass up little gem lettuce!) A unique and beautiful presentation showcased the fresh crispness of every leaf. Kasey explained that they hand-rub each leaf individually to be sure it has just the right amount of their incredibly unctuous dressing. This is one of the best salads I've ever enjoyed.

Next up? Their cacio e pepe. Another dish I order anywhere I see it on the menu. Here...it was made beautifully. No butter. No oil. Just proper cacio e pepe with gorgeous, al dente, house-made noodles. It could have used more pepper, but I always think cacio can use more pepe. This was another winner.

Their sourdough pizza was a bit of a disappointment, however. The dough (also house-made) was phenomenal. Chewy. Airy. Light and dense all at the same time. Perfect sourdough. Cooked in their wood-fired oven (in the center of the space for all to see), I ordered their truffle mushroom version. All of the descriptions screamed umami-bomb, down to the whole roasted garlic generously sprinkled over the top. However, it had so much balsamic that the pizza ate sweet. Such a let down to have all of that glorious umami lost and buried beneath balsamic (which is not even in the ingredients list on the menu). 

I don't mean to steer you away from the pizzas. If (when) I return, I'll likely get a different one. They're beautiful.

As is this restaurant. So tight. So smart. So well run. 

If you're looking for solid Italian off the strip, this is your spot. For those looking to walk off the calories, take the monorail to the Sahara and walk from there. Not sure I'd do it at night, but an enjoyable stroll to be sure.

Add this to your list. It's worth a visit.

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