August 19, 2022

Copenhagen saved one of the best for last. Kadeau is a Nordic-focused restaurant inspired by ingredients from the island that houses its original restaurant: the Island of Bornholm. Of all restaurants I visited, this one seemed the most truly Nordic. The food was simple and elegant yet you tasted the Nordic techniques and the ingredients harvested from that island. This was a special meal and one I would urge you not to miss when you're in town.

The dinner starts in their lounge just beside their beautiful and active kitchen. I had a Gin & Tonic, made with their own brand of gin, which was super floral (just as I like it!) and resulted in a terrific drink I didn't want to end. Various small bites were also provided and set the tone for the evening. The food, the flavors, the plating - all screamed excellence and intelligence.

Service was gracious and centered without being the least bit stuffy. With only 8 tables and a single seating each night, the restaurant almost seemed overstaffed. The team worked cohesively and you never felt for a moment that they weren't in complete control. As one example, I loved the positioning of the single-diner table (mine) pointed at the kitchen. It reminded me of Binkley's and was an inviting place to sit, through the entire dining room seemed to be the same. I will note the the other chair had been removed, as is appropriate.

The food at the table continued to endorse the fact that this restaurant brought intense skill to the table. Craftsmanship at the highest level. The meal resulted in three (yes, THREE) of my favorite dishes ever.

The double-smoked salmon was a wonder, for sure. It was so beautiful to look at and the meat the came out was so incredibly tender and flavorful, paired with terrific compliments. The first dessert was also incredible - flavor profiles I have had many times, but not with this depth of contrast and beauty.

Their bread course stole the show. It was so good I requested a 2nd dish of it - something I have never done prior to today. They graciously agreed and brought me another. This dish is so beautiful and such a tasty joy to eat, it is worth the entire price of admission.

I ordered the juice pairing with the meal - the 4th one I had in Copenhagen. Kadeau's juices were out of this world good. Every single offering was miles better than the other restaurant's versions. These were extremely delicious and super refined.

Service was outstanding. Perfect, even. There was only one flaw the entire night - a small hair I found in the pork dish. I can't decide how enormous a mistake that is. How many demerits, if you will. It's a huge problem at a place like this, for sure. But if I'm being honest, the food was so stellar, I kind of shrugged it off and went on enjoying. I didn't even tell the restaurant about it. The highs were so dang high, this low was easily ignored.

Kadeau is one of the better restaurants I visited in Copenhagen. It flies a bit under the radar, but don't let it pass you by. The experience is absolutely stellar and one NOT to be missed when visiting this city.

Walking in, the kitchen greets you as well as the chefs who all come over to personally say hello.
The wall as you walk in is filled with ingredients in jars (being fermented, preserved, etc.) - most from the island of Bornholm
The meal starts in the lounge area with snacks and a drink. I had a Gin and Tonic made with their own gin. It was the best I've ever had.
Ham, made here. 26 months cure in wine cellar. Oil, pickle seeds Victoria plum, dehydrated pulp, wood ants, scallop paste
Beet root on embers...
Mussel emulsion (dip beet into emulsion)
Cheese pie. Crust from pork fat. Crystalized cheese. Fermented Maribel. Crispy Maribel. Grated black garlic. Soft to pick up. Very complex flavor. Nice finish of salt.
Queen scallop, semi frozen black currant
Norway clam, strawberry paste. Extremely cold (shell had clearly been refridgerated), nice punch if salt
Fresh, raw mackerel, rye bread, fresh cheese. Clear homage to Smørrebrød..
A closer look.
Salad preserved tomatoes and strawberries, dried marinated in oil, filled with paste. Topped with pickled coriander seeds. Super complex in flavors and textures. Tart from the berries, smooth unctuous oil, creamy cheese fillings
Shrimps from Denmark, sweet and raw, blanched walnuts, cream infused with horseradish, caviar on top. Really special. The shrimps were incredible.
Mahogany clam from Norway, 30-50 years old. Raw. Seaweed. Dried pears and plumbs. Gooseberry juice.
Peas, double shucked. Fig oil, unrip fig. nasturtium and coriander flowers. Bronze fennel...
A closer look.
Salmon from Norway, salted, dried for a week. Smoked twice..first cold on cherry wood. 2nd smoke (hot smoke), in house tonight. Light a fire, put it out, heat from chimney, brushed only with its own fat...
Preparing the salmon table-side...
Added a good amount to my bowl...
Summer leeks cooked in butter. Sauce, butter with wild roses.
Bread. Paltessa bread. They would make porridge and the next day, make a pancake from the leftovers. This is an homage to that. Danish cows milk cheese. Coji and barley. Flowers from the summer...
A look inside...
This is the only time I have every asked a restaurant to repeat a dish. This bread was stupefyingly delicious. I had to have more. (They kindly brought a 2nd portion for me with delight.)
Icelandic sea urchin (raw), reduced buttermilk whey, pickled pinecones, blue mussel stock reduced to black, oven dried and then grated on top...
A beautiful presentation with seaweed around the "bowl'...
The bowl was actually the shell of a sea urchin. Really nice dish. Worked perfectly.
Celeriac cooked for a full day in butter with toasted hay, whey, flowers, fruits, sauce from the juiced celeriac trimmings with buttermilk whey and toasted yeast. This almost tasted like a meat dish with an unctuous chicken jus
Mussels steams piped with mushrooms and wrapped lardo. Incredibly smoky from the grilling. Insanely deep and delicious bites. On the side: rape ("wrap") shoots (what they make canola oil from) pickled, grilled
Pork loin from Denmark, aged for 2 weeks, shoots from their garden...
jus from pork bones and brown butter...
The resulting dish. Delicious and balanced.
Strawberry wrapped in nasturtium leaf, gooseberries, pinecones, honey infused with flowers. This was BEAUTIFUL!! Deep strawberry flavor, chewy strawberries, frozen bites, herbaceous notes. Brilliant. I've had a number of very similar dishes but this one blew the others out of the water.
Traditional honey cake (from their own bees, whipped creme fraishe, dusted with woodruff powder, Bulgarian caviar, toasted pumpkin seed oil
Buttermilk whey, ice cream, mulberries, buttermilk whey foam, sea salt, cherry blossom oil
Pettifour. All fruits! Strawberry, quince, etc. Inventive and perfect end to the meal.


What do you think? I'd love to hear from you.

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