la Mère Brazier

Before Paul Bocuse, there was Eugénie Brazier. A woman (yes...a woman) who was the first person ever to hold 6 Michelin stars.

She did it in 1933.

Think about that. A woman in 1933. This feat would not be replicated until 1998. I urge you to read her story and be inspired as I was.

Though she passed away in 1977, this restaurant continues in her name. And let me tell you, it is perfection.

I went for lunch. And, if you are a regular reader of my blog, you know that French cuisine is not my favorite. French tasting menus even worse. I have been plagued by too many French restaurants whose goal seems to be to make their guests a fois gras goose, stuffing them with the maximum number of calories and then not letting them go until they get 5 more rich dishes into you. (Looking at you Kong Hans Kælder.)

So I came for lunch, but did their Eugenie Brazier tasting menu: a "modest" 5 courses, each one a selection from two options. I allowed the server to switch two of my selections given that they were the restaurant's stallwarts. I tend to not order fois gras, but their artichoke and fois gras dish has been on the menu since 1921. Can't pass that up. Moved from scallops to the crispy pike mousse as well. There's no way it could compete with the incredible pike mousse from Le Coucou, could it?

As mentioned above, this meal was perfect. I don't mean my favorite. I mean, an absolutely spot on French meal delivered in a beautiful setting with phenomenal service. If you are in Lyon, this place is an absolute must. You feel the history. You sense the meaning. That this accomplished woman is still inspiring this level of excellence a century after her heyday is mind-blowing. And you should definitely experience it.

Set in a Victorian home, each of the small carpeted rooms holds 4 or 5 tables, creating a warm, intimate setting. Service was all over it. Proactive. Formal, but friendly. This was my first meal back in Lyon after feeling quite unwelcome at Le Neuvième Art and the contrast was unmistakable. This restaurant was glad I was there. And I felt it.

The food was quintessentially French. I rolled my eyes when presented with the initial plate - Pate en croute. "Great. Heavy meets heavy on heavy." And sure - it's a heavy dish. But this one was delightful and delicious. The tart cherries on either side seemed to acknowledge the heavy pate and were raising their hands (stems) to provide relief. It's a brilliant start.

The next dish was also off-menu - a light and bright smoked salmon dish. "We are NOT going to murder you..." whispered Chef Brazier. Her namesake artichoke and fois gras dish was off the charts. Beautifully plated with complementary and diverse flavors that invited you back in again and again.

The pike mousse was stooooopid good. Lots of groans from me as I enjoyed the thick mousse contrasting with a powerful and deep beef jus.

The main was a bit of a disappointment, perhaps because I had my heart set on pigeon, which was listed on their menu online. But the menu had just changed. This finale was truly delicious, but lacked the "heft" to anchor a meal like this. It was certainly filling! But was kind of a mess to eat. On its own, delicious. As the denouement...a bit unsatisfying.

Desserts were of course, stellar. The best souffle of my life. I doubt that better exists. 

As I left the dining room, my jacket was waiting on a chair in the hallway. The doorman held the front door open and wished me well as I walked back out to the streets of Lyon. 

This place is perfect. It was an incredibly enjoyable meal and quite generous for a 220€ price point.

OK. Maybe I'm coming around to French food. If you're in Lyon, come here to find out why. 

100 years later following her incredible accomplishment, we still laud her skills, vision and culinary excellence. Brava, Chef Brazier. Brava.