Modern cuisine celebrating richness and diversity of Quebec’s terroir products. "A platform for showcasing the work done by people of the land, too often forgotten."

Laurie Raphael has been a staple of fine dining in Quebec for 30 years, named for the founding couple's two children. You are welcomed in through the kitchen, with the chefs giving you a terrificly warm greeting. Then walked, somewhat awkwardly through the lengthy arc of a dining room. I was directed to a table set for 2 (despite my reservation for 1) and at the far end of the dining room alongside the bar (despite the dining room being not even half full). The awkwardness continued when the server indicated they would "wait for my partner to arrive". I apologized and indicated that it was just me. They gushed awkwardly and quickly cleared the other setting.

The first part of the meal was dominated by this type of service error. A full tray of glasses dropped and smashed everywhere. A server bringing me course #2 was stopped steps from the table by the main server who knew I didn't yet have my pairing. Overall, the service felt stunted and forced. Not natural. My primary server improved greatly as the night moved on. Friendly and earnest, working hard to assure my experience was positive.

The food was extremely flavorful. Dishes were well thought out but which also seemed forced, like the service. Dishes were clearly thought of in terms of "How can we be as fancy as possible?" I mean, who stuffs duck with sweetbreads? A bit pretentious, no? Though...intelligent and quite tasty, I must admin. I'm not versed enough to know whether this is an outstanding homage to French fine dining from 40 years back, or an attempt to hold on to a bygone food style.

In my opinion though, they would benefit from some modernization of their dishes. A not quite half-full Saturday night dining room seemed to agree.

The shining star was the non-alcoholic pairing. I actually got both the wine pairing AND the non-alcoholic pairing, after she lit up with excitement when I asked about it. Some of the best drinks I have ever had, alcoholic or otherwise. The maker of these drinks served each one with great descriptions. He was extremely likable and clearly brilliant at his craft.

He even offered me an extra drink at the end of the night - one he was working on and wanted my feedback for. Though, he never came back for that feedback. Too, I was told I would receive a menu for the evening and never did. More evidence of service that isn't quite at the mark.

The end of the meal was terrific, though. Taken to the bar, you are offered any (or all) of 5 dessert bites, displayed wonderfully on the bar surrounded by various after dinner drinks. I got two, which were both outstanding. The tea they served was also excellent, and they genuinely asked my thoughts about the meal.

I feel like the restaurant is clinging to its beginnings and resisting modernizing. The night was uneven, mostly because of the service. I didn't leave unhappy, but I definitely didn't leave delighted. Very full, for sure. Should I return to Quebec, I doubt I'll return here. Too many other good options out there.

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