le Cirque
I find it increasingly difficult to evaluate places like le Cirque. This is quintessential, old-school French dining. The original le Cirque was in NYC 1980s and 90s, with Daniel Boulud featured as their head chef for 7 years. They were the toast of the town hosting celebrities, government officials and anyone who was anyone.
The Bellagio licensed the name and runs this outpost with little input from the original owners, carrying on the brand and tradition.
They get so much right. There is a "whatever you may want" attitude from every staff member. I made all sorts of adjustments to their tasting menu (leave out the fois gras, add the rabbit dish from the a la carte menu, may I have the dessert from the vegetarian menu?). Every request was met with "Of course, sir. It's no problem, sir."
On my reservation, I requested a table by the window to watch the famed Bellagio Fountains. Those tables are all 4-tops so, as a solo diner, they didn't sit me at one of them. But they sat me at the next closest table, where I could look through the biggest window and still see them. "I know you requested a table by the window. Hopefully this one will be sufficient for your experience tonight." Don't blame them one bit. And a really nice touch to do the best they were able - and not ignore my request.
The biggest impact actually came from the hostess. I was about an hour early and was looking at the menu outside the restaurant. Seeing me (and not knowing I had a reservation at all), she opened the doors, came to greet me and asked if there was anything she could help me with. Such a nice, savvy touch - and terrific sales on the business side. She is a huge credit to the place.
Save an overly-aggressive busser (who often cleared as I was still chewing), the staff was truly outstanding. When I left, the manager walked me out insisting I stop in at any time for macaroons "even if you don't have a reservation".
The food? It was just what you would expect from old-school French. Super rich. Super luxe. Over the top (in an 80s way). The final dessert was almost laughable in its visual decadence. This type of food really isn't my favorite. Nor is it hip. Or current. Or ground-breaking. But it's what it is meant to be - a full immersion into French dining luxury of the 1980s.
Most of the dishes were well made and yummy. These are dishes that make you say "Yep. That was good." but never "Whoa! That's incredible!" From their heyday, their signature dish is Sea Bass and leeks in a Pinot Noir reduction. The dish graces the back cover of the le Cirque coffee table book and is brilliantly conceived. Unfortunately, the fish I received was so overcooked, it detracted from what would have otherwise been a knockout.
I found myself longing for the modern food and service ease of le Coucou. But for those looking for that luxury experience - or a throwback to an old-school culinary era - and aren't able to invest in Joel Robuchon, le Cirque provides that exact experience here in Las Vegas. They will enjoy every bit of it - as many around me did. This restaurant is designed for them.
Not so much for me.