Le Neuvième Art

I so wanted to eat here. I've heard incredible things and what research I did only increased my resolve. They don't offer solo reservations online so I made a reservation for 2 and emailed to inquire if I could change it to 1. They did so happily.

Or so I thought.

This restaurant is small. Maybe 10 tables. I wouldn't say they were on top of each other but definitely...intimate. It's a warm and elegant single room with nowhere to hide, punctuated by an automated sliding door to the kitchen that was in constant use. It was probably more noticeable to me because my table faced it directly.

When I entered, the woman was expecting me. "Yes...you are dining alone, yes?" Led to my table (properly set for 1 only), I received an immediate opening bite and a bowl of rose water to wash my hands. Asked about wine, I requested to see a list of wines by the glass.

Then time stopped. 

Well, at least it did for my table. Many minutes went by with nothing. No dish. No server. Nothing. Out of sheer curiosity, I started timing it. 15 minutes went by without...well, anything. No server. No wine list. The (now cold) rose water and opening dish remained untouched on my table.

Other tables were receiving very attentive service. I was getting a distinct feeling that they didn't want me here.

 After 17 minutes, the server came back and asked which wine I would like. I gently reminded him that I did not yet have a wine list to look at. 

23 minutes in - the next few bites arrived. They were so good, I almost forgot how late they were.

27 minutes in - nearly a half hour after I sat down - the wine arrived and the rose water was removed from the table.

Was this because I was a solo diner? Because I didn't speak French? Because I am American? I have no way of saying, for sure. But watching the other tables receive engaging, friendly service, it was difficult not to conclude that this was targeted. For whatever reason.

Things did improve. One server in particular seemed to take my table under his wing and make sure I was cared for. But I can't say as though I ever settled in and felt truly welcome.

Which is too bad, because the food here is absolutely outstanding! The opening bites of eel mousse, anchovy cracker and smoked quail egg were top notch. The scallops were an incredible stand-out dish. And the wagyu was presented in a smart and interesting manner, with celeriac actually singing as the star of the plate. The souffle at the end was also terrific.

I wish I could write off the service issues as just an off night. I scoured the dining room for reasons to think that, but the rest of the tables looked exceedingly well cared for. It's difficult to recommend a restaurant that treats a guest - any guest - the way I was this evening. Unless you speak French, I'm not sure I can recommend this place. 

Except that food...  <3