
Lilac
"Find the star."
I brought my son here. He's a chef with a keen eye for food. We came for dinner before heading across the street for the UFC event. (Figured we are likely the only people on earth to have ever done that. LOL.)
He was excited. And when the first dishes arrived, he said "They're really solid, Dad."
"Find the star, Ryan. Where is the [Michelin] star?"
He began to see what I was seeing. This was good cooking. It's a good restaurant. But a Michelin star? I can't find it. Well...except for in one place. More on that in a bit. Let's stay on the food.
I last dined here 18 months ago, soon after it opened. Some of the food really stood out. The tuna tartare was outstanding as was the octopus. The mains were good, but that's it.
Tonight? The food all took a step back. Substantively.
This restaurant is designed to get a star. It's their sole focus. On the last visit, they made it clear "We have one. We are now going for two." The menu reads that way. All of the things you would put on a Michelin menu. Colorado Lamb. Dover Sole. Ora King Salmon.
The menu remains mostly unchanged from my first visit. That always troubles me for a Michelin place. "Set it and forget it" shouldn't be the mantra. Lilac is not about the discovery of the best dish of food by a driven chef. It's about checking the boxes that Michelin looks for. You can feel and taste the lack of heart in each dish. It's safe. It's...fine.
Let's be honest. It's uninspired.
Ryan went straight for the tuna. I was dreaming of the tartare with whipped avocado mousse. My mistake for not reading the menu closer - "a la plancha". Fried tuna filets in a broth. As is our habit, we took a few bites of our own dish and then switch so we can each try both. We do this without a word so as to not color the other's opinions before trying it.
But this time, Ryan was looking at me funny.
I tried his tuna, as unappetizing as the presentation was. I immediately looked back up at him. Without saying anything, we both knew. This was bad. Really, really bad. The tuna lived halfway between raw and cooked so it came off as gray and soft/mushy. It sat in a broth that was uninspired at best and dishwatery at worst. This should be unservable at a place like this. It's one of the worst dishes I have ever eaten at a starred restaurant.
My octopus was better, but just OK. Every dish played it so safe. This plate needed spice...to punch you a little bit and wake you up. But it was satisfied to gently hint at what could have been. Live in the middle of the road rather than picking a side.
The mains were fine. I liked my tenderloin very much, though there was nothing star-worthy there. And why only the tiniest bit of jus? As a butcher, Ryan's focus was on the cut of the lamb, with a piece of sinew running through the middle of it. It was also vastly underseasoned. Yet another thing that should not be served at a Michelin restaurant.
Desserts were excellent - especially his.
Despite the disappointing food, the front of house is off the charts. Friendly and engaged. Earnest and caring. My server from the first visit greeted us. "I believe I served you the last time you were here..." I'm sure it's in the computer, but impressive all the same. We had a different server and she was outstanding. Service still seems a bit soulless to me. Again - "do the Michelin things" but it's a bit stiff and staid. That said, their FOH staff could work anywhere and fit right in. Bravo.
I won't be back. This restaurant is plain uninspiring. It checks boxes. It looks the part. But it needs to take a chance. It needs to be driven. It needs heart and soul. It needs to take some risks. I would prefer the food to be something, even if I don't like it. Have an identity. A personality. A point of view. Take a chance. Swing and miss. But this restaurant stands at the plate and hopes to earn a walk each and every time.
Set in the foyer of the swankiest hotel in Tampa, they are sure to have full dining rooms. Hundreds of potential guests check in to this hotel each and every day. A full dining room may keep them afloat. But it won't keep them alive.
Hopefully Michelin can see through the trappings here. It should be in the guide, but does not earn anything beyond that. Certainly not a star.
Watching the Florida Michelin awards a few months ago, I saw a star awarded to Lilac. I had never even heard of this place. (Talk about a bruised ego!) I immediately messaged a friend to see if they were familiar. They weren't. We made reservations for the first Friday night we could.
Situated inside the swanky new Edition Hotel, Chef John Fraser (who runs the culinary program for the hotel and has a 1-star restaurant under his belt in NYC) delivers 3 restaurants - Lilac being the most formal. Not even one year old and Chef Fraser nabs 1 star for his new restaurant here in Tampa. It's an impressive feat - and one that shows a very determined focus borne from experience. Bravo.
Found in the lobby of the hotel (not off the lobby...IN the lobby) and barely hidden behind a bar and loads of live plants, Lilac feels like a Michelin joint. The large stars displayed at the pass as you walk to your table certainly set the tone. But the interior design is luscious and the serving staff looks dapper and smart in their white and taupe outfits. (I should mention that the entire Edition Hotel is gorgeous in design and fit-up. And every employee is not only friendly and helpful, but could be on a magazine cover.)
A 4-course prix-fixe is the only option, with multiple options to choose from as an appetizer, main and dessert. The options are varied, interesting and accessible. And let me tell you - delicious! I was glad to attend with a few friends who believe in sharing the way I do so we could try a myriad of dishes.
The initial bites were outstanding! With clear Greek inspiration, this welcome was elevated and diverse. The milk bread was incredible and the Grouper bite was a real standout. Appetizers continued the story. The rabbit was a bit of a disappointment - none of us enjoyed the sauce. But the tuna tartare and especially the octopus and pork belly were memorable! All three mains were excellent. The swordfish won the day. My lamb was delivered rare (though ordered and described as medium rare) but was an excellent cut that could handle it. Neither the lamb nor the duck had any (or much) jus along with it. As odd as it seemed, neither protein needed or missed it. Desserts were killer. The souffle is not to be missed.
While service did have a few hiccups (most notably serving us each the wrong appetizer), staff was friendly, helpful and engaged. I asked our server about the vision for the restaurant and he earnestly described the visions and goals of obtaining a star. The chef addressed the staff the next day. "Getting a star is about showing why. Once you have it, everyone looks for why not." Their eyes are set on obtaining a 2nd one - an odd choice for their vision of keeping the restaurant accessible in price point as well as on the plate. I said "You can't build 2 stars on $150/pp." He acknowledged that was true but that they might add a 7 course offering.
Will I rush back? No. But will I come back? Yes It should be very interesting to watch them grow.