Noksu

Noksu has me written all over it. Small tasting counter? Inside a subway station?? With a code to get in the secret door???

Yeah. It may be kitchy. But I love this stuff. (Looking at you, Tanière³...)

This is a new restaurant that wasn't open in time for a Michelin review last year. They will undoubtedly receive a star in December when the new NYC guide comes out. This is stellar cooking in an elevated environment.

It's a beautiful experience. 

Some of the dishes were extraordinary. The tomato water dish reminded me of Saison's incredible radish dish. The elevation of vegetables to this height is unique and mind-blowing. Subtle but brilliant changes like slightly thickening the liquid and adding the perfect amount of heat (a little more than you might expect) from the ancho chile sorbet came together so you just couldn't get enough. This dish would fit right in at Noma. I can't say it any stronger than that.

The wagyu was also stellar. It also had an addictive heat in the sauce that played so well against the sweet BBQ and unctuous (and perfectly cooked) meat. My dining partner tried to steal my last few bites. I couldn't blame her.

Service was a bit rushed and harried. Those presenting each dish said their piece and quickly turned to their next task. You never felt "with" them. Or maybe, they never felt "with" you. They were attentive and took care of things. But even when asked if we enjoyed a dish, they were slowly sneaking away as we provided our answer. Too bad for such a beautiful setting and stellar food.

But stellar food it is.

There were two things that raised an eyebrow though. First, so many of the dishes had foams. They began to feel tired after a while. And the foam on the monkfish was a disaster - splitting and fading before it made to to us. It appeared the chefs were struggling with that one tonight.

The style of food also caught me off guard. The restaurant is named Noksu - meaning "of the earth" in Korean. The chef is Korean. It is found at Broadway and 32nd Street - right in the middle of Koreatown. 

But the food is...French?

Well, "a primarily French restaurant with Korean influences" I was told, when asked.

To be honest, I'm not sure if that is "wrong" or simply confusing. With experience at Per Se and others, Chef Dae should (of course) cook the food that inspires him. But a heads up would be helpful for the experienced diner. "French" is not found anywhere on their website (except in reference to The French Laundry). 

Easily overlooked when the food is this good.

Noksu is a terrific experience. I'll look forward to Michelin's thoughts on the matter in December.