Rustique

Rustique has been getting a lot of play in the Lyon food scene. To be honest, I picked it because it didn't look heavy and because it was open on a Monday night. But I was very curious.

Chef Maxime Laurenson runs the kitchen and his wife runs front of house. With only 8 tables and 1 seating, this place feels incredibly home-y. They both have an incredible gift for hospitality. And with a resume that includes time at Le Mere Brazier, he clearly has chops.

He describes his food as "contemporary peasant cuisine". Using hyper-local ingredients, cooking only with fire and elevating ingredients and dishes that would typically not be found in fine dining. In my mind, this is French-inspired cooking with new Nordic technique: a focus on the land, a focus on simplicity, intense respect for the ingredient.

Chef presented nearly every course at the table with an extensive description of the dish, the ingredients, the inspiration. He is soft spoken and it is incredibly intimate. He leans way in with lots of direct eye contact, slowly outlining what he has placed before you. He clearly LOVES what he is doing and believes in it. His passion is impressive.

So is his cooking! As a "when in Rome..." guy, it feels odd to recommend this place when you're in Lyon. I mean, it's not traditional French. But what it is is quite unique and brilliant. This dude can cook. For real.

His sauces are brilliant. Presenting each dish, he uses dramatic words. "This is very powerful." "This is dish is extremely unique." "This fish is extraordinarily rare." It can almost feel like he's hyping you up so you taste something better than what's actually on the plate. But...it's actually on the plate. A diversity and strength of flavor that can be rare to find, even at terrific restaurants.

Privately, I commended both he and his wife for the effort it takes to create and run a restaurant like this. It's not easy. It's all on them. I could see in their eyes that I hit a nerve - it hadn't always been easy. But they continue to serve their guests with grace and hospitality that is quite special.

I am hopeful that a full restaurant on a Monday night bodes well for their success. Without question, they deserve it.