Sparrow & Wolf
This restaurant is getting a LOT of buzz and was the one I was most looking forward to. Checking out the menu and photos, it looks solid but not special.
It is definitely solid.
And it is definitely special.
The first sign was when I asked about the tasting menu. "You choose one from each section, yes?" (I had already planned my selections...)
"Oh no. You get all of that. Everything on the menu."
Take a look at that menu. And take a look at the $135 price point. There is no way. There's certainly no way it can all be great. Not for $135.
Except it is. It's so good.
The menu eats like rounds of tapas. Small(er) plates that pack a ton of flavor, with definite nods to Mexico and Southeast Asia. The bites of round 1 were outstanding. I need to call out that kanpachi dish. It looks like straight up Japanese fish on rice with a sweet blood orange sauce. Yet, the kanpachi sits on a soft potato (solid nod to Peru) and the bright orange sauce, rather than being sweet, was spicy from a Peruvian pepper. Having recently been to Peru, the flavors were spot on and this was such a brilliant twist and departure from you think you are seeing.
This menu brings the heat. Not too much. But plenty of it. They push you to the edge, but not over it. And when I asked about it, they were unapologetic. "We are going to bring it! Get ready..."
Round 2 featured an absolutely incredible scallop, seared to perfection, sitting on (you guessed it) a very spicy mapo tofu. Imagine a dollop of deliciously chewy beef ragu infused with a strong bite. Once again - completely unexpected with a scallop. But worked brilliantly! Bright, acidic greens provided a perfect contrast.
The pasta dish is the winner of a contest among the chefs. They do this each year. Best dish gets on the menu. This one was certainly worthy, featuring caramelized sweetness of the charred onions offset by the rich carrot foam and punched by ginger and tumeric.
My server kept saying "Just wait for the pork...". I thought she may not want to hype that dish up so much. But BOY did it deliver. A head-shaking "How do they DO that??" type of response, elicited by charred by juicy pork, a delicious peanut curry, strong lime and pickled veg and...banana/sweet potato puree.
Read that again.
Banana. And sweet potato. Puree. Where has that been all my life??
Dessert was a perfect end of super bitter chocolate, macerated bing cherries and jasmine tea ice cream. Even the glass of wine I got was outstanding.
How do they do this for $135??
Sparrow & Wolf is slightly off-strip in a crappy looking plaza. But don't be fooled. It is absolutely worth a quick Uber over and back to experience this brilliance. This meal, start to finish, was consistent and brilliant and excellent and delicious.
Put this restaurant on your Vegas to-do list. I promise you'll thank me when you do.