Troisgros

I didn't want to come here. Sitting an hour west of Lyon, it was to add 2 train rides to a compressed travel schedule and I tried to talk myself out of it. How good could it be? But, the more I read about it, and after watching the 4 hour documentary on this place and the family that has run this place for 4 generations, and realizing it has held 3 stars for over 50 years in a row...it was added to my trip. 

My decision was bolstered a few months prior when Chef Christophe (from Essential by Christophe in NYC) lauded my decision. "Bocuse, Pic and Troisgros. Those are the three families who founded French cuisine!" I didn't tell him that I was skipping Bocuse's restaurant to visit this one.

I hopped the train westward to the abandoned town of Ouches. It's cute. But there is nothing there. Including no taxis and a single Uber driver who saved my bacon. I had no idea how I would have gotten to the restaurant if he was unavailable, nor how he managed to drive a Tesla out here in the middle of nowhere. He offered to pick me up at the end of the day and I gladly took him up on it.

He knew right where it was and dropped me in the parking lot. Walking through the gates into this...I'm not even sure what to call it. You know those gorgeous, romantic properties you see in Bridgerton or or Downton Abbey? This looked like that. An incredible, crisp, fall scene with ivy perfectly climbing brick, gorgeous stone walkways, open fire pits with perfect stacks of wood next to each, green meadows, horses. There was even a stream running through the property. 

I've been to very few places in life as beautiful as these grounds. I urge you to come early to allow yourself to wander the grounds and take it all in. It must be glorious in any season, but I was so glad to be here on a brisk fall day. The buildings seemed warmer and more inviting. And the colors of the leaves were absolutely magical. Each vine and twig and leaf seemed placed with purpose.

I couldn't believe what I was seeing.

I have included below a number of photos and videos of the property itself. They are short but necessary to understand what this place is. And how it feels. "Magical" is the only word I can come up with. Staff members wander and greet you with a broad smile as if they were made to be there. As if they were on a movie set.

Enter the warm building and more awe ensued. From the wine cellar (video below) to the beautifully vaulted ceilings to the hostess coming up to me. "Welcome, Mr. Shacket!" I hadn't checked in. I hadn't told anyone my name. But they knew it. They were expecting...me. 

Escorted towards the dining room, there was too much to look at. Every nook and corner was a masterpiece. "Where is that iconic kitchen?", I thought to myself. As if reading my mind, the hostess said "The kitchen is back there, around the corner. We will be sure to bring you for a visit later."

Photos of this place can give you an idea, but its beauty is off the charts. The fully glassed-in U-shaped dining room allows you to feel that you are dining in nature itself. Set inside the U is a 2,000 year old tree. The interior mimics that exterior, with exposed metal columns acting as "trees" and the wooden floor tying you straight into the outdoors.

I haven't even talked about the food yet. And I will - because the meal, too, was magnificent. But don't skip this place. The meal is but one part of a greater whole that all speaks as one and provides an experience you are not likely to find in many other places.

The food here is absolutely sublime. The opening crackers set on the table were butterflies. (Of course they were...) And may be the best cracker I have ever had. Dish after dish amazed, providing incredible diversity of flavors while not trying too hard. For example, the artichoke dish...artichoke, truffle, sauce. That's it. This place doesn't hide the food behind technique or layers of...whatever. There are no clouds or spheres or trickery. They let the food speak for itself.

You are tasting the ingredients, not the chef. It's the height of cookery.

There were some small service misses. A dish was sent before I had silverware for it. (Ably caught by the host, who stopped the dish from being delivered until they could remedy the problem.) A somm dove into a lengthy conversation with me about a wine as my dish was set down...one of my bigger pet peeves. The attempted to clear my butterfly crackers with some left on the plate. I wasn't letting those go without a fight. LOL.

But overall, service was impeccable. The team operated effortlessly but with quite an intensity in their eyes and gait. One of the reasons I enjoy dining solo is that you can more clearly take in the whole of a dining room and service at large. This team was a joy to watch and certainly incredible to be on the receiving side as well.

One server in particular was so impressive. On top of everything. The underlying urgency with the outward affect that is so calming and so in control. She didn't spend much time at my table but I requested her name, simply to be sure she was appropriately lauded in this review. Her name was Celia and she is a great credit to this place.

The wine pairing was out of this world and should not be missed.

Following the meal, you are brought to a lounge to enjoy coffee, tea, a few more small bites and simply relax, looking out onto their grounds from luxurious leather seating. Service in the lounge suffered greatly. I had only a 15 minutes until my driver was to arrive and I had yet to pay the bill or see the kitchen. Even after mentioning this, I couldn't catch anyone's attention to finalize these items in time.

Upon paying the bill, I walked myself back to the host stand for my jacket. They found it and set it aside. I looked at them quizzically. "You wanted to see the kitchen, didn't you...?"

What a beautiful ending touch to a phenomenal experience.

My food notes can be found in the photos below. Please read each and enjoy. I hope I captured even a piece of the magic of this place. If you are a foodie, this place is a must for your bucket list destinations. In the words of the reddit post that put me over the top to visit here, it is "a transformative and benchmark experience".