Foreigner Restaurant

I was encouraged to visit this restaurant by a couple from Copenhagen who I met at Kadence, which is essentially across the street. I was driving through Orlando after meeting a friend on Florida's east coast and decided to stop in and see for myself.

Aside from being a benign strip mall, every indication I had walking in was that this place rocked. Decor was crisp, clean and welcoming. I arrived well early and they were not able to accommodate me then, but the hostess had that friendly and controlled presence that I wish I knew how to pull off myself. Indeed, when I returned later and was greeted by another FOH member, I looked up to find her back at the bar, having my chair pulled out and ready for me, with a huge smile on her face.

These are people that are glad you are there.

Also sitting on that counter was the most beautiful leg of iberico ham in a gleaming stainless steel holder. Yes please.

I was still there 30 minutes before service, so I pulled out my phone to wait for others to arrive. "Mr. Shacket?" I looked up to see Chef Bruno Fonseca in front of me, smile on his face and hand extended for a solid greeting. "I'm so glad you are able to join us this evening." 

I asked him about the restaurant, his vision and history, etc. He was incredibly present and shared openly about the place. The Brazilian shared that they "serve American food through the eyes of a foreigner." Interesting concept.

Chef Fonseca spent time teaching culinary and it shows. His understanding of food is remarkable, as is his clear mentorship of his young(er) staff. It was very enjoyable to watch him gently coach and even fix things during the evening. They were the workers, but nothing escaped his gaze. In the best way, it felt that his purpose was just as much training these talented young people as it was to deliver the meal to the guests.

Bravo.

This meal was absolutely stellar. The menu itself is straight down the middle. Opening bites? Check. Fois gras and fruit? Check. White asparagus? Check. Duck? Lamb? Check. Check. Other than the cheese course (cotton candy on a stick...), there is nothing truly noteworthy about the composition of the dishes themselves. He is not reinventing any wheels here.

But that's what makes this meal even more extraordinary. To do the "banal" (well...fine dining banal...) and do it in a way that makes a knowledgable guest sit up and take notice? That takes really good cooking. And that is precisely what Chef Fonseca delivers start to finish.

The supporting cast is just as terrific. I've already mentioned the terrific staff - attentive, friendly, engaged and not even slightly overbearing. The wine pairing? As good as almost any I've ever had. Chef Fonseca worked the counter regularly, assuring everyone was enjoying themselves well beyond the food. He often lauded the local farms and producers that delivered the product you were enjoying, as well as lauding his staff very publicly. It was about them, not him.

I asked Chef whether he expected attention Thursday night, when the new Florida Michelin Guide was announced. "Your restaurant clearly deserves it.", I said. He looked back at me and said "I hope so." and pointed behind him. "Because my staff deserve it."

I'm writing this review a week later and the guide completely ignored this place. Unfortunately placed in the same category as Luthun and Plu, extraordinary restaurants that Michelin sees fit to ignore. I don't understand the reasoning or politics of it all. But people eat the guide. They come to Orlando and say "Which Michelin restaurants should we go to?" The impact of omission goes far beyond recognition and directly and powerfully impacts the business for the negative.

Orlando's starred restaurants are dominated by Japanese tastings and American steakhouses. A full, American tasting menu of this caliber should be such a welcome addition to the list. It was to me. Other than Sorekara (which landed in my list of favorites rightfully received 2 stars the other night), Foreigner is the best restaurant I have found in Orlando. This is the restaurant I would return to. With glee.

You should too. This is an excellent experience for a fine dining pro and novice alike. Terrific food, welcoming experience, beautiful space, fantastic wines.

This place is exactly why I eat out.