Vida

Indianapolis isn't a food(ie) town. I came to check out the city in general. (The tour of the racetrack was amazing!) Vida is the only elevated restaurant here. So it was my first stop.

My travels have taught me that there truly is an over zeitgeist to a city and its food. Like begets like. I've seen it in my own city of Tampa as Michelin came to town and a rising tide has begun to move all boats. Tanière³ talked about how Quebec wasn't quite ready for their full offering (and price point). A city's collective palate needs education and lifting at times, and Indianapolis is definitely there.

So how is Vida rightly judged? Compared to its neighbors, it is miles ahead. Compared to New York or Chicago? It has a ways to go. 

Let's be clear about a few things, though. This chef knows how to cook. Products & sourcing were absolutely stellar. Plating was as good as it gets. While service felt a bit forced, the team is earnest and provided some definite highlights.

• I told the host it was my first day in the city, and my server mentioned it as he walked me to the table. (I love when little details get transferred and noted. Makes a guest feel seen and special.)
• I slid the small plant out of the way on my table - and the server noticed and offered to remove it.
• I overheard one server walking a table (who were clearly feeling out of their depth) through the menu. It was patient and detailed and exceptional.

The server knew plenty about the wines. And when the (excellent) sommelier picked up, I tried a few that didn't appeal to me and landed on a Pinot Noir. He brought me a different Pinot he was using in the pairing. "This one is a lot better. It's the same price." I'm sure it wasn't, but his generosity combined with answering an unspoken question shows a very high level of service.

My big struggle with Vida is that it seemed to fall well short of what it could be. Flavors were muted and restrained. Most dishes promised far more flavor than they offered. Which, given the high level of their other attributes (sourcing, plating, concept) made me feel this was a deliberate choice. Perhaps this is to appease their audience, who is not yet ready to venture far from centerline. But for this diner, I wanted to ask Chef for everything he was capable of.

Bring it. Challenge me. Show me what you've got! 

I had this feeling only once before - at Huso, where my first visit featured restrained dishes from Top Chef winner Buddha Lo. My next visit (only weeks later) featured his Top Chef dishes and demonstrated the true level of his cooking. 

I don't know Vida's chef and my assertion is a bit audacious, I realize. The following night, I ran into the sommelier at another restaurant. He mentioned this blog and genuinely asked about my experience.

"One of the challenges we have in Indianapolis is that we get written up, but not reviewed. There aren't local writers who provide solid critique. So it can be difficult for us to know how we are doing and where to improve."

An honest confession and another angle of a city's zeitgeist I had failed to consider.

So once again - how do you evaluate a restaurant like this? Their headwinds are strong, but still they push forward, working to provide an elevated experience both on and off the plate. For that, they deserve high praise. The experience is excellent and I can definitely recommend the restaurant. 

I bring to my visit a breadth of experience unlike most that eat here. My view is therefore different. But hear me out...

My view isn't better. It's just different. 

Part of the reason I write this blog is because of my love of hospitality. Food, of course. But that's one piece of the whole. I get to walk in and receive each restaurant's offerings. Only costs me the check. The staff? They invest. And think. And work. And plan. And lose sleep. And burn themselves. And take abuse. And sacrifice for my experience.

They know so much more than I do.

A restaurant like Vida? It's not for me to wag a finger at. I am not privy to their endless challenges and the decisions they make to meet them. It's for me to be thankful and appreciative. And I am.

For where they are and what they do, it's a tremendous place.