August 15, 2022

Høst is an interesting restaurant. It seems to sit in a (previously unknown to me) middle ground between Michelin (with ingredients like hay ash and cow cheese) and good, "normal" dining (with service one would expect anywhere and an uber-rustic interior). The physical space seems to want to "hide" from you - servers are in brown, the walls are soft brown woods on brick, the tables are the same soft brown wood. 

I'm not criticizing, mind you. Sitting in this "tween" state is an interesting vision. I don't see how or where this restaurant could (or even wants) to push towards Michelin. And that's just fine, of course. I would love to speak with the owner and understand the vision - what they are trying to achieve. What success looks like to them.

The food screams well-sourced. Very Danish and land/vegetable driven. Almost too much. A number of dishes, the accompanying greens dominated and hid the protein (such as the crab). But things were super fresh and clearly thought through. The mussel soup was incredible and the desserts were just stellar.

This was intended to be a fun, easy stop ahead of 4 monster dinners. I chose this over Marchal (a French place with a star) and I'm glad I did. A nice, easy, quality meal.

Fresh vegetables and cherries served with...
Danish smoked cheese. Veggies were actually extraordinary.
Scallops with cucumber...
A yogurt sauce was added that had a LOT of horseradish. It overwhelmed the dish.
Crab salad with tomato and raspberry...
They added a warm tarragon sauce. Nice dish but I didn't taste too much crab in there...?
Mussel soup with thyme. This was REALLY delicious. Drank rich like cream of mushroom soup.
Summer cabbage, smoked mayo, shrimps (it's always plural over here, which makes sense, I guess?) Eaten like a taco. Nice bite.
Salmon, hay ash, asparagus, peas...
They added a sauce of white wine, brown butter and parsley oil. Nice, easy dish. I would have liked a little more punch (some citrus, perhaps).
Yogurt mousse, nitrogen frozen birch bark ice cream , dried woodruff dust, edible pine cone (soaked for 4-6 months - sweet and chewy like a really soft gummy bear). This was silly good.
Milk chocolate cream, Swedish blueberries, grass ice cream, black currant leaf, caramel twill. This was also really outstanding.
Petit four


What do you think? I'd love to hear from you.

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Replying to Steven Smith